The emporer's new shoes
By Todd Stadler · Monday, December 8, 2003 12:01pm
I can't tell if this is too postmodern or just stupid, because it's a false dichotomy. Adbusters is selling a shoe.
Of course, they're doing this because they hate Nike. Not only is Nike the biggest force in the shoe industry, but at one point they employed sweatshops and other horrible conditions to produce their shoes. For all I know, they still do.
While I'd like to think that it's the latter point ? the horrible working conditions, the sub-living wages ? that causes people to lash out at Nike, it's clearly the former point ? that they're #1 ? that causes folks like those at Adbusters to get so riled up. Does the #27 company in the shoe industry use slave labor? Does anyone care? Does anyone even know what company that is?
So Adbusters is angry at Nike for being successful. Maybe the sweatshops contribute to their ire, but given Adbusters' general "up yours" demeanor towards American capitalism, I doubt it.
Nike could be the most righteous corporation, but as long as they remained, as Adbusters said, the "undisputed champion of logo culture, [their] swoosh an instant symbol of global cool," Adbusters would find a reason to make up a clever, if juvenile, poster mocking Nike.
All of which is fine. One could debate whether Adbusters' tactics, such as their famous spoof ads, actually accomplish anything besides amusing the viewer and increasing his resolve that he was right in the first place.
But this BlackSpot shoe goes beyond simply mocking a corporation's ads by changing a few letters.
What Adbusters is doing is selling a very-slightly-modified Converse Chuck Taylor. As far as I can tell, they painted a white circle on the side and a red dot (?) on the front.
I'll ignore for a minute that, in order to take a swipe at Nike, they have ripped off Converse*. Does Converse employ sweatshops? I don't know. Most of their shoes, I have read, are made in Asia. But whose shoes aren't?
Certainly not Adbusters. Theirs will apparently be made in South Korea. But hey, if you're going to play with the big boys, you sometimes have to act like them, right?
Which is what's so puzzling about this move. Adbusters isn't waging cultural warfare against our corporate overlords here, they're just adding to the cramped advertising space with their own strange brand.
One of the main complaints about Nike is the way they pollute our minds with their branding, selling not so much a shoe but an image.
Of course, Adbusters, by selling a shoe that thus far doesn't exist, that already looks like an existing shoe, and the entire raison d'?tre of which is to not be a Nike shoe, is doing the very same. They're not selling the shoe. They're selling not-Nike.
And they're branding it with a black dot, which is supposed to symbolize a lack of a logo, but looks suspiciously like one anyhow.
All of this so that the anti-capitalist iconoclast can shell out ? what, $65? ? for a shoe they'll wear with all the other iconoclasts while they laugh at all the dumb sheep who stupidly buy their expensive Nikes. Right.
I'm all for discussing the effect that massive amounts of advertising have on our society, as well as the ramifications of decent labor and trade laws and all that. But pretending to be ironic while only contributing to the problem isn't really helping.
*I was unaware when I first wrote this that, as of summer 2003, Nike owns Converse, including the Chuck Taylor All Star shoe. But the point is that I didn't know this. How many other people will percieve this Converse rip-off as pertaining to Nike?
6 comments so far
1 Dec 16 '03 1:28am:
doug replied:
"So am I the only one who finds it funny that you're blogging a lot more since you made a big public announcement you were going on hiatus?
Anyway, I looked at the press on their site, and found this:
Rather than simply critiquing the marketplace, as it has done for the past 14 years, Adbusters has now chosen to enter it by producing the blackSpot (or the ''Unswoosher''), a low-cut canvas sneaker with a white spot in place of a corporate logo. If Adbusters receives 5,000 or more advance orders for the sneakers, which will sell for about $40 a pair, it will begin production in what Kalle Lasn, the founder of Adbusters, calls a ''clean'' factory in China. ''There are a lot of people now who want to jump over the dead body of the old left,'' Lasn recently told a reporter. ''We've decided to stop whining about Nike. Why not make $10 million and use it to run a media-literacy campaign instead? I'm really sick of the whiners.''
Adbusters is sick of the whiners? The spoof ads seem more "whining" than almost anything else I've seen from the left.
But, apart from that, I am actually sympathetic to the idea of people offering pragmatic alternatives instead of just "culture jamming". Everyone needs shoes, and if there's shoes that you can get that are unbranded, so much the better. I generally try to avoid obviously branded clothing myself (apart from rock band t-shirts, which is something I wrestle with mentally from time to time, but anyway).
But I totally agree that the white circle and the red dot (and WTF is up with that?) are just another form of branding, and it's disingenuous of Adbusters to pretend otherwise. If you don't think logos should be on your clothing, don't put logos - which is to say, a visual signifier of identity - on your clothing.
One other point, though - I do think that you're a bit harsh on them I/R/T their stance on Nike. It's not just that Nike's successful - sure, they're the #1 company in the shoe industry, but there's kajillions of industries. It's their policies that get them really irked, and I would like to think at very least they would be much more conflicted if Nike wasn't using sweatshops, et al.
I don't know if I'm making any sense. Time for sleep. (Also, it appears my returns don't show up, which is unfortunate, but I'm too tired to screw around w. it anymore.)"
2 Dec 18 '03 8:43am:
tODD replied:
"[Re: my blogging]
Well, I'm not promising to continue to blog this frequently. I just happened to have some stuff I wanted to write down, and while I probably wouldn't have written it if forced to think about it sitting on the main page for weeks on end, with the smokescreen in place, I felt less burdened somehow. Or something.
[re: no logos]
Sure, I'm in favor of logo-less or less-logoed clothing, in general. I just don't see how Adbusters can provide that alternative without being hypocritical. If this signals a sudden shift in their ideology, then maybe that's good, but it seems rather that they're not fully thinking through what their selling shoes would mean.
[re: why Nike]
I still would like to know if Nike is so singular in the shoe industry for using bad labor practices. I guess I really doubt it. But I feel like I don't know because no one is paying much attention to the companies that aren't #1. Which means that, in a sense, it's Nike's #1 status in the industry that makes them the main target.
It's kind of like how everyone loves to hate SUVs as signifiers of our car culture gone mad. Sure, they pollute a lot more than my little Camry, but my Camry still pollutes. If everyone currently driving an SUV traded it in for a compact car, there would still be many problems with our car culture.
But it's easier to attack the big, obvious problem than to attempt to manifest a shift in the entire culture's way of doing things. That way, most people don't feel vilified. Wearers of Adidas, Reebok, New Balance, etc., can feel good about themselves and scold Nike wearers, at least until Nike cleans up its act or crumbles. Then they're next.
Similarly, every non-SUV driver can feel smug that they're not hurting the environment, because the guns aren't aimed at them. And I'm so sick of reading articles aimed at SUVs that fail to notice the problems with cars in general.
I think I'm rambling now. "
3 Sep 28 '05 9:10am:
Caron replied:
"Nike operates sweatshops.
Nike owns Converse.
Therefore, some Converse shoes most likely come from sweatshops."
4 Sep 28 '05 3:48pm:
tODD replied:
"Criminals use the internet.
Caron uses the internet.
Therefore, Caron is most likely a criminal."
5 Dec 12 '05 3:00pm:
Rob Llewellyn replied:
"All very interesting stuff.
I live in Byron Bay Australia. Yesterday I ordered a pair of Cons. Sadly this morning I entered on google 'sweat shop converse' and here I am. I get your point about being hypocrites with symbols and all but lets face it unless we are out bush hunting food with boomerangs picking bush tucker from trees and living in caves we are all hypocrites. Lets give these guys a fair go they are agaisnt Nike. Is that such a bad thing. They are bringing attention to there crimes on humanity. We humans seem to need symbols to identify with good and bad. Thats because we are simple entities. Is there not a more noble cause you could be attacking. Peace"
6 Mar 30 '07 7:44am:
Amanda replied:
"I was researching through the web and I was looking for the company that owns Converse. So im guessing that Nike owns Converse. Am I right? contact me through email. thank you"